Notes: Mt Stuart, June 28-29, 2004

From the brief notes I took in my notebook, more details:

2:22am depart trailhead
3:45am at intersection of trails 1394 and 1226.2. Realize we missed a turn-off. Start hiking cross-country E/NE.
5:24am reach correct trail (to Ingalls Lake)
5:40am water filter break.
5:55am end water break.
9:20am just below 8000ft, set up first anchor for first pitch.
8:40pm Ania commented that maybe we should stop and bivy. Gary agreed and was already at an anchor and adequate bivy spot. Gary got snow, melted water, and cooked the mac&cheese. Ania used her axe to level and widen the ground for a bivy spot, and to remove rocks. She put up Zoe's tarp as a shelter.

Gary lead a fun 5.9-ish pitch, not on the main west ridge route (to the left of the "correct" route).
Ania lead down sketchy ramp on back (north) side of west ridge, protecting for Gary since it was all descent.
Gary lead long simul pitch, atop of which we met up with two other climbers. After a nap, they were about to descend (bail off).
Ania lead a very short pitch, due to rope drag.
Ania lead a very fun 5.7 or 5.8 full pitch, kind of zig-zaggy.
Gary lead a short pitch (due to rope drag) with 2 belly flop moves.
Ania was to lead a short pitch, but it was long and easy, with about 2 pieces of pro over 60m.
Gary lead 1st of 2 really long simul pitches.
Gary lead 2nd of 2 really long simul pitches.

Ania lead a pitch towards the final summit block. We simuled some of it.
Gary lead a pitch, also simul.
Ania lead a more-than-60m pitch. Gary belayed most of it, since Ania wanted a belay (not simul) on a section of 5.9+ or 5.10a crack. We simuled the latter part of the pitch, before Gary arrived at the crack.
Gary finished off the last 20m to the summit with a 1-piece-of-pro lead.

It took us 2 hours to hike out to the car in the morning.